lucky and bright

alexandra and matt do the gecko wiggle through southeast asia. wish you were here...

full circle

at long last we returned to phnom penh and mentally prepared ourselves for the journey home. there was a mixture of excitement to go home to the things we missed (parmesan goldfish, friends, etc) and saying goodbye to the things we had grown accustomed to while traveling (fried noodles, tuk-tuks, hot weather). it was wonderful to start and end in the same place as we were able to really get a feel for how we had grown on our adventure. we started in october as fresh-faced, scared, clueless tourists and ended in april as seasoned pro travelers. i learned more than i thought possible and had the time of my life doing it!

matt scanned the film photos from our trip! they are so amazing they make me homesick for traveling. is that a thing? it should be.

matt scanned the film photos from our trip! they are so amazing they make me homesick for traveling. is that a thing? it should be.

a day at the temples

a day so beautiful it will always stick out in my memory.

papa-paparazzi

somewhere in the middle of our 10-day relaxathon in jogya we forced ourselves, and thank heavens we did, to spend a day touristing at boroburdur and prambanan. not only was it stunningly beautiful, but it was really fun as well. for the first time we felt in the minority at a tourist attraction; there were so many javanese and indonesian visitors! and they all wanted to take my picture! talk about feeling like a celeb!

there are so many good pictures from that day (the lighting was aaaaah-mazing) but to get us started here are a few of us and our fans:

member that time we were in asia?!

oh hey there! didn’t see you come in. but now that you’re here, please make yourself comfortable. go on now, settle in. we have a lot of catching up to do!

it seems like forever ago that we were back in indonesia, relaxing on our sunny balcony in jogya, dreaming of san francisco. in fact, sometimes it’s hard to believe we were even there if it wasn’t for the pictures. fortunately we have the proof, so without further ado, i present to you “City Living on Java”

from top: our amazing guesthouse where the mother served us breakfast every morning; fashionable headscarves on display in the mall; our first becak ride (‘eeey beCHAK tranSPORT!’); ornamental chicken at the kraton; kraton ceiling that sheltered us for a poorly timed downpour. these are all from jogyakarta, one of my favorite cities of our trip. turns out we don’t have any photographic evidence of ever being in jakarta or our 12 hour train ride across java. but i swear it happened!

ps! i’m currently queueing up loads of posts so be sure to check back for more trip-recappin’ tomorrow!

eat. rain. love.

UPDATE: i decided to add some pictures i took on matt’s camera at the dances we went to in ubud. 

bali is probably not the type of place one would assume could be lumped into one post. but without pictures, and with your patience of course, i feel justified in doing just that. my camera batterey died and it turns out the charger i got in vietnam wasn’t actually legit, but there weren’t too many photo-ops for the first two towns anyways. we disembarked from singapore and chose a guesthouse in legian around dinnertime. when we went out to explore the next day we were confronted with hundreds of horrible souvenir shops, locals who thought the USA was part of australia, and the dirtiest beach i’ve ever seen in my life. our first night it rained like it was the end of the world and i waded back to our guesthouse through water up to my knees. we bounced from the kuta/legian area pretty quick in favor of the quieter sanur on the other side of the island.

sanur was a lot more low key than legian, but stil not quite our scene. we stayed for nyepi, the hindu new year, and partook in a rain soaked parade of home-made demon floats followed by joyous merrymaking. i wish i had my camera for that, but we took some shots on film that could be really cool. the next day, after the noise of nyepi, is ‘silent day’ in which everyone must stay inside with no lights or cooking. we slept a lot on silent day; then we bounced in search of something more lively where we wouldn’t be pestered by the two travelers that constantly locked us in horrible conversations.

next on the list was ubud, recommended by all (including elizabeth gilbert). now ubud is cool. it’s very ‘california’— you’re always a stone’s throw away from an organic cafe, a yoga studio, or an eco boutique. the vibe is chilled out, the locals are relaxed, and the food is supreme. we hung out in ubud for a week, long enough to see the sites, read a few books on our courtyard patio, make a friend, feel an earthquake, go to yoga, take in some traditional dances , and learn to appreciate everyday balinese life.

we left ubud seriously jiving with bali so we decided to give the beach one more try. this time we ferriend to nusa lembogan just off the southeastern tip of bali. with no atm and no cars allowed on lembogan we had a hunch we’d enjoy it—and that we did! i took some pics of gourgeous sunsets  on matt’s camera because they were just too divine. we snorkeled! we tanned. we went on long walks around the island. we swam. we watched locals harvest seaweed and women unloade boatfuls of everyday essentials. we finally found the bali we were looking for, and we savored every minute of it.

with just over two weeks of our indonesian visa accounted for in bali, we knew we had to get to java asap. so we ferried from lembogan to the bali mainland, then taxied to the airport, and left it up to fate…

singapura

i don’t have any pictures from singapore becuase the 24 hours we spent there were not the most photogenic. equatorial haze isn’t very flattering light. anywho, we crossed the border, found a reasonably cheap hostel, exchanged our remaining ringgits and went straight to the food stalls. yum. then we got our ducks in a row vis a vis the internet and a nap and then we went to go find more food stalls. the ‘street’ food in singapore is bomb! after enjoying banana leaf biryiani we stopped for a (film) photo op and ended up chatting for hours with an indian emigre about the trials and tribulations of courting for ‘love marriage’ whilst abroad. dude was a hopeless romantic and i wish him all the best. after a pleasant sleep-in the next day we scooted over to the airport and bopped on over to BALI.

melaka (malacca)

melaka was a great way to end our 5+ weeks in malaysia. having similar vibes as penang, it acted as a symbolic bookend, a metaphorical right parenthesis. the food was absolutely amazing and the locals were undeniably friendly. we made friends with our waitress at the first restaurant we went to, our guesthouse dudes, all of their buddies, the tandoori man, the bookshop guy, and the old antiques dealer. we explored the old colonial town, wandered through another chinatown, and went antiquing in the morning. then we’d take the edge of the afternoon heat with riverside beers, a twilight nap, or an aircon movie. it summed up our time in malaysia quite well: relaxing, hot, friendly, delicious, and highly recommended.

two buildings that used to be the tallest in the world but now they are not so they are just two tall buildings

after two weeks of beach bumming we finally motivated ourselves to get back to KL and on with malaysia. we had embassy business to attend to in the capital and we also needed to book our flight to bali (thank you again, mom!), as well as cross one more attraction off the list. we spent pretty much two days making several unnecessary trips to the american and indonesian embassies—i am now the proud owner of 24 additional passport pages and no longer the proud owner of $86— and hanging out in malls. i know that sounds weird but mall culture here is out of control! we wanted to see the petronas towers (which are at the foot of a huge mall) and a movie (duhh, in a mall). but it was pretty cool! the stores in these malls range from luxury designer to crappy plastic stuff and everything in between, so it was pretty fun to cruise all the new shops. then we saw the king’s speech, which is amazing btw, and took a million photos of the petronas towers. even though they are just buildings the architecture is really fascinating and the lighting at night is spectacular.

KL=done!

little surfer girl

by the time the waves picked up again we had made friends with an awesome couple staying at our guesthouse. unfortunately marcello had a nasty cut on his foot and was on doctor’s orders to stay out of the water…which meant that their pre-rented boards were up for grabs! renee and marcello very generously left them in our care and finally, i mean FINALLY i learned how to surf! it took 5 tries, a lost watch, many tears, a few tantrums, and about one million pounds of patience, but now i can say that i know how to surf! i can’t wait to get to bali to practice my moves!

btw, it did not take matt 5 tries, or any tears, or any lost articles to learn how to surf. nope, he just hopped on and within…oh i’d say 15 minutes, he could stand on the board like a pro. he was up at at ‘em with the waves every morning and having an absolute ball. i’m so proud of him / i also kind of hate him just a little for being such a fast learner!!!

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